Before occupying a front passenger seat of a shared cab, I spent a minute weighing other options. Buses were out of the question because they pick and drop passengers all over the place. As a result, they spend a whole day on the way.
Initially, the plan was to squeeze my long frame into an 18-seater van, but limited legroom and small windows made me change my mind. The express saloon car I finally chose costed me twice as much, but saved me time.
My point of departure was Aflao, a bustling border town located in Ketu South District, Volta Region. The other side of the frontier is in Lomé, the capital of Togo. I crossed into Ghana after an extensive tour of Togo’s Maritime Region.
The Lomé - Accra highway is quite scenic. When we reached Volta River, I pretended to be pressed and kindly requested the driver to pull over. It’s an old trick that works all the time. Having learned something about this river while in grade 4, I felt the urge to take a closer look and snap a few photos.
I was guilty of gazing at the river and taking selfies instead of attending to a call of nature. However, I felt better when I saw my fellow passengers and the driver himself rushing to the bush to empty their bladders. They are the ones who needed the bathroom break I asked for.
After a short photoshoot session, on the bank of the river I studied in the 1980s, we proceeded to Accra. Today’s post highlights my experiences, observation and encounters in the Ghanaian capital.
The express saloon car I chose costed me twice as much, but saved me time.
I had breakfast at RockWoods African Restaurant, on Ring Road Central. Then I spent a few minutes studying the map of Accra and fine-tuning my itinerary. A few minutes later, I walked out of the restaurant and disappeared into the streets of the city I wasn’t familiar with.
As I usually say, walking enables me to observe and absorb more. Besides, the simplest form of exercising brings money-can’t-buy health benefits. Yes, walking was my first activity in Accra.
I strolled along Ring Road Central all the way to the Kwame Nkrumah Interchange. Formerly known as the Kwame Nkrumah Circle, the interchange connects all four corners of the city and the rest of the country. Completed in 2016, this massive project enables smooth transits to and from Ring Road Central, Nsawam Road, Kwame Nkrumah Avenue and Ring Road West. Its implementation remodeled the old round about and unblocked clogged arteries.
I covered about four kilometers on foot. I would have taken more steps if I had a whole day. Since I only had half a day to see as much as I could, I turned to other means of transportation.
A giant statue of Kwame Nkrumah is erected inside the neighboring Kwame Nkrumah Water Park. I didn’t have access to the park because the gate was locked, and the caretaker was nowhere to be found. However, I was able to see the interior and snap a few photos while tip-toeing on an elevated spot behind the fence.
After a close look at the imposing statue of the father of the nation, albeit from a heap of garbage abandoned outside the fence, I left the area. This time, I used Bolt’s application to book a ride. As the driver accelerated along Kwame Nkrumah Avenue, I reviewed my itinerary one more time and noticed one thing: The first president of Ghana left his footprints all over the country.
Kwame Nkrumah Interchange connects all four corners of Accra and the rest of the country.
I exited the Kwame Nkrumah Interchange through the avenue named after the same towering figure in the history of Ghana. As mentioned above, Kwame Nkrumah left his footprints all over the country.
Initially, the plan was to visit the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park after a short break at the Kwame Nkrumah Water Park. You better get used to this name because you will read it a few more times before you get to the end of these chronicles.
Unfortunately, the memorial park was temporarily closed. Next on my list of sites to be visited was the Black Star Gate. However, Makola Market happened to be along the way. Its location made it convenient to drop by en route to one of Accra’s most popular landmarks.
As a tourist, going to the market was an opportunity to interact with residents of my host city. The experience enabled me to feel the vibe of the Ghanaian people and capture their spirit. Besides, I needed a souvenir.
As expected, Makola Market is a hive of activity. I bypassed a cluster of stalls while ignoring aggressive retailers. Each one of them wanted a piece of my wallet. When I saw one clothing vendor selling Black Stars’ jerseys, I approached him and offered half of his asking price. After lengthy negotiations, we reached an agreement. Money exchanged hands.
I have been a fan of the Ghanaian soccer national team for about two decades. It’s therefore befitting to show my support by donning the team’s jersey. Win, lose or draw, my unwavering affinity is undeniable.
While at Makola Market, I bought a Black Star jersey
When I left the bustling market, I headed to the Black Star Gate on 28th February Road. This road derived its name from the date of the tragic Christiansborg Castle crossroads shooting.
On February 28, 1948, three Ghanaian WWII ex-servicemen were shot dead by the British police Superintendent, namely Colin Imray. This happened during their peaceful march to the Christiansborg Castle. The plan was to present their petition to the colonial administrator, Sir Gerald Hallen Creasy. The shooting incident, that took the lives of Sergeant Adjetey, Corporal Attipoe and Private Odartey Lamptey, sparked widespread riots and added fuel to the struggle for independence.
In 1957, Ghana became the first country in sub-Saharan Africa to gain independence. Under the leadership of Kwame Nkrumah, the newly independent nation inspired freedom fighters in other African colonies and spearheaded the independence struggles all over the continent.
Mr. Nkrumah, a passionate pan-African activist, extended a helping hand to comrades across Africa. His contribution to the decolonization efforts elsewhere in the continent is undeniable.
In his Independence Day speech, Nkrumah said, "Our independence is meaningless unless it is linked up with the total liberation of the African continent." Julius Nyerere, the Tanzanian anti-colonial theoretician, who would ultimately lead his country to independence in 1961, described that historic day in Accra as "the beginning of the end of colonialism in Africa."
When I set foot on 28th February Road, I walked through the Black Star Gate. One step at a time, I revisited the past and put history into perspective. Then I crossed the road and entered the Black Star Square.
Black Star Gate is a popular tourist attraction in Accra
After picking up interest in the history of Ghana, walking through the Black Star Gate drove chills down my spine. When I left the roundabout, I entered the Black Star Square. This is where Independence Day is celebrated annually at the national level.
Every March 6, a parade commemorating Ghana’s historic feat is staged with pomp and splendor. To date, Independence Day is the most decorated public holiday in Ghana, rightfully so.
The Black Star is a symbol of the lodestar of freedom in Africa. As the first African country to gain independence, Ghana paved the way for the independence of the entire continent.
The Black Star Square encompasses the Independence Arch and the monument erected to honor those whose blood wasn’t shed in vain. When I crossed this site off my bucket list, I headed to the home of the Black Stars: the Ghanaian soccer national team.
As mentioned earlier, I have been a loyal supporter of this squad for a long time. During the 2022 FIFA World Cup tournament that took place in Qatar, I watched Ghana defeat South Korea while wearing the jersey from Makola Market.
I barely spent a minute at Accra Stadium. As a matter of fact, a stopover at the stadium was pointless. There was no game on that day. Who goes to the stadium to watch nothing? My next move was to go to the beach.
The symbolic Independence Arch
Accra people love their beaches. The sandy recreational facilities are usually crowded during weekends and public holidays. However, I showed up at the Independence Beach before the arrival of most beach goers.
The Independence Beach is sandwiched between the Black Star Square and the turbulent waves of the Atlantic. Has someone else noticed that the Atlantic is rougher than the Indian Ocean? Or is it only the Gulf of Guinea which has bigger and stronger waves?
As I strolled around, a number of hawkers did their best to persuade me to buy stuff I didn’t even need. The more I ignored them, the harder they tried to attract my attention. Speaking of attention, one of them was selling Africa-themed necklaces that caught my eye.
I don’t wear necklaces and similar accessories, but I have friends and family members who love anything that flaunts their African identity. I knew they would appreciate gifts procured from a hustler plying his craft on the sandy beaches of Accra.
Like it was the case at Makola Market earlier, I offered half of the seller’s asking price. When he turned down my offer, I walked away. He followed me, refusing to let go. After another round of negotiations, we reached an agreement.
"Where is my receipt?" I asked him after paying. "Where are you from?" He posed a question of his own instead of issuing the demanded piece of paper. Before I responded, he put the money in the pockets of his black leather jacket and disappeared. "Who wears a heavy jacket on such a hot day?" I wondered.
I bought gifts from the hawker at the Independence Beach
After an encounter with a hawker, I booked a ride and left the area. My destination was the popular Labadi Beach. En route to Labadi, my 24-year-old driver played a collection of hit songs by different African artists, including Sarkodie, Burna Boy and Tiwa Savage.
When his Spotify playlist reached Unachezaje by Diamond Platinumz, I asked my driver/DJ if he understood its lyrics. "I don’t speak Tanzanian." He responded. "It’s not Tanzanian, it’s Swahili." I educated him. Our conversation revolved around contemporary Afro beats, which seemed to be his favorite topic.
Upon arrival, I bade farewell to the driver-turned friend. He thanked me for supporting his side hustle and gave me his business card. The young man, who prefers anonymity, works for a cocoa exporter from Monday to Thursday and spends every weekend driving a Bolt.
After paying an entrance fee of 20 Ghanaian Cedis (about USD 2), I walked in and spent some time riding a horse. Then I sat down on a rooftop area of a restaurant known as Mac Bay. Outside the building, fully occupied tables were stuffed on the sand, underneath a cluster of colored umbrellas.
As I quenched my thirst while waiting for my lunch, a couple of singers offered to entertain me. I politely turned down their offer. Minutes later, a group of patrons from the nearest table paid them to perform. After their electrifying show, I felt the need to chip in something because I was part of the satisfied audience.
Labadi is one of the most popular beaches in Ghana
In the beginning of this tour, I had breakfast at RockWoods African Restaurant, on Ring Road Central. My breakfast was served in a traditional bowl whose designer drew inspiration from Hausa art. Coincidentally, the content of the bowl in question was millet oatmeal known as Hausa koko.
Although culturally homogeneous, the Hausa people are scattered around West and Central Africa. More Hausa communities can be traced along the ancient Hajj and trade routes in the Horn of Africa and North Africa.
Energized by Hausa koko, I walked from the aforementioned restaurant to the Kwame Nkrumah Interchange. From there, I headed to the Black Star Square via Makola Market. Later on, I had lunch on the deck of Mac Bay Restaurant, within the premises of Labadi Beach.
My lunch, composed of fried plantain and a mixture of beans and black-eyed peas, was served on banana leaves. After the meal, I nursed some coconut juice while gazing at the splashing Atlantic waves.
Trying local delicacies enhances travel experiences. In addition, by consuming locally-grown food, tourists support local farmers. Learning to prepare meals the traditional way, while visiting another country, is also highly recommended.
Eating is the only activity every tourist indulges in. Although my tour of Accra lasted only six hours, I found time to visit restaurants twice. I wish I would have stayed for dinner, but I had to catch a 4 p.m. van back to the Volta Region.
Local food enhances travel experiences
When I was a little kid, my friends and I used to play a game that required participants to identify flags of different African countries. Later on, I learned that colors embellishing each flag are symbolic. Decades down the line, I find myself paying attention to the flags of the countries I visit and try to attach meanings to their color schemes.
Recently, I found out that the shouting colors of the fabric used to make African attires have meanings too. There is more to the traditional African prints, also known as the Ankara, than simply decoration. Their patterns reflect peace, love, freedom and unity, to name but a few.
The iconic Afrocentric material, popularly known as Kitenge in East and Central Africa, is gaining international recognition. Kitenge shirts, hats, backpacks, laptop bags, wallets and different accessories are common all over the region and beyond.
One of my favorite activities in African markets is to buy a piece of kitenge and watch a tailor transform it into a custom-made product of my choice. Kitenge can be sewn into anything. It stimulates creativity and satisfies the ever-evolving needs of fashion enthusiasts.
The Ghanaian Kente is one of the most popular fabrics in West Africa. It is also embraced by people of African descent around the world. While in Ghana, I saw how designers are adding a modern twist to the traditional Kente. The fusion of tradition and contemporary styles is magical.
More and more Africans are upgrading their wardrobes in favor of locally made clothing items. By turning to African designers, we are pumping the little air we can gasp into our economies and giving local businesses a shot in the arm.
The African fabric is gaining international recognition
While on this tour, I paid for products and services in cash. Although Mobile Money transactions are popular in this West African country, my MTN Ghana line didn’t have a corresponding MoMo account.
Hotels, restaurants, supermarkets and other formal business establishments accept debit and credit cards. However, it is advisable to keep some cash in your pockets while visiting places, especially if you are not a registered Mobile Money user.
My VISA card was useless when I had to buy a jersey from a vendor doing business at Makola Market. Again, it was worthless when I purchased a handful of necklaces from a hawker selling random stuff to beach goers. Even the transport company that ferried me to the Volta Region, after the tour, didn’t give me the option to pay electronically.
The Ghanaian Cedi was adopted in 1965, replacing the Ghanaian Pound. The latter was part of the British colonial monetary system. In 1967, the new cedi came without the image of Kwame Nkrumah, following his ousting through a coup d’état. Until the recent inflation, the cedi had been relatively stable.
Cedi is an Akan word which means cowrie shell. Akan is spoken in parts of Ghana and Ivory Coast. At some point before the colonial occupation, cowries were used as currency in parts of Africa and Indo-Pacific.
To understand the monetary value attached to each payment, I would convert the charged amount into US Dollars. I have to admit, I hate making this my default benchmark. Nonetheless, I use Uncle Sam’s money as reference whenever I pay for something in an unfamiliar currency.
Tourists are advised to keep some cash in their pockets.
Initially, the afternoon plan was to visit Osu, Jamestown and Usshertown — with stops at the Christiansborg Castle, James Fort and Ussher Fort. Unfortunately, I was behind schedule.
I had already been to Osu though. The 1948 Christiansborg Castle shooting incident, mentioned earlier, took place there. Finally, I tweaked my plans and took to the streets of Tudu within the Accra Metropolitan District.
I chose Tudu because that’s where the Volta Region-bound shuttle terminal is found. I wasn’t done with Accra. However, I had to figure out how to get to the eastern border, if need be, book a ticket in advance.
When my exit plan was set, I strolled around Tudu area and felt the heartbeat of the community. The first thing I noticed in the hood is how popular soccer is among tender-aged boys.
Soccer is the most popular sport in Africa. From grass pitches to dusty grounds of uneven surfaces, kids across the continent enjoy the game anywhere. In most cases, they play barefoot, and their goal posts are improvised.
Playing is important for optimal development among children. It contributes to their cognitive, physical, social and emotional wellbeing. The United Nation’s High Commission for Human Rights recognizes play as every child’s right.
Scenes of young boys playing their favorite game are common across Accra. There is enormous potential in their raw talent. If I was a scout, I would have discovered the next Lionel Messi. With the current exposure in what was once dubbed the dark continent, Africans will undoubtedly dominate the sport in the future.
Komi Osei, a 13-year-old prospect, is dreaming about playing professionally in Europe. A Paris Saint-Germain fan is also envisioning the day he will wear Ghana on his chest and shine on the sport’s biggest stage, the World Cup. "My generation will make Africa proud." He told me.
Soccer is immensely popular in Africa
I chose to visit Accra on Sunday because traffic flows faster on the day of the Lord. Unfortunately, I made it to the Kwame Nkrumah Water Park when the caretaker had gone to church, leaving the gate locked. The Osu Castle was also closed, and so was the Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park.
Despite the disappointments caused by temporary closures, I made the most out of the six hours. Memories created in Accra will be cherished for the rest of my life. As I always say, good things are meant to be shared. These recollections are no exception.
This memorable tour was designed to promote tourism while cultivating the culture of reading. After visiting Accra, I published a dozen short stories. The twelve pieces were followed by an e-book. This content has been circulating online for a while.
The print version of Six Hours in Accra will be added to the list of booklets distributed through Exposure’s Give Back program. The initiative helps to encourage young Africans to read more and appreciate the beauty of Mama Africa.
