As I travel around Rwanda, I try to identify every water body I stumble upon. While in Nyarugenge, I saw the Nyabugogo River pouring into the popular Nyabarongo River. Then I crossed the latter en route to Bugesera. Before entering Ngoma, I spent a few minutes marveling at the Akagera River.

I am currently in Ngoma District, my sixth layover. So far, I have been to several lakes, including Muhazi, Gashora, Mirayi, Mugesera, and Sake. With twenty-four more districts to visit, I haven’t scratched the surface yet.

How extensive is the network of these rivers and their tributaries? What led to the formation of the lakes? What kind of aquatic life do they sustain? Which ones are inhabited by crocodiles? Which ones are safe for water sports?

As the tour progresses, we will learn more about Rwandan rivers, lakes, and other geographical features. At the end of the three-month expedition, we will have accumulated a ton of knowledge.

Today, let’s explore the Akagera River. Before we dive into the river, let me clarify something. The Akagera should not be confused with the neighboring Kagera River. The former flows into Lake Rweru while the latter flows out of it.

Having located the mouth of the meandering Akagera River, let’s trace its source through the following hypothetical scenario: We trek adjacent to the river from Lake Rweru against the direction of the current. We ramble along the bank until we make it to the confluence of two rivers.

The two tributaries are Nyabarongo and Akanyaru. Their merging point is in Ntarama Sector, Bugesera District. For the sake of clarity, I will refer to the exact spot as Ntarama Valley.

This network of rivers forms part of the upper headwaters of the Nile. If the number of rivers and lakes mentioned in this post causes confusion, remember one thing: the course of the Akagera River stretches from Ntarama Valley to Lake Rweru. Everything else is a story for another day.